The most common causes of nail ridges and what you can do about them
Nail ridges are something almost every nail tech will come across at some point. Some clients may have fine lines running from the cuticle to the tip, while others might notice deeper grooves appearing across the nail plate.
While nail ridges are often nothing to worry about, understanding what may be causing them can help you adapt your service, recommend the right nail care products and know when a client may need to seek further advice.
From natural ageing and dehydration to nail trauma, here's what nail techs need to know about ridged nails and how you can work with them safely.
What are nail ridges?
Nail ridges are raised or indented lines that appear on the nail plate. They generally fall into two categories: vertical ridges, which run from the cuticle towards the free edge, and horizontal ridges, which run across the nail.
Vertical ridges are common and can become more noticeable as we age. Horizontal grooves, sometimes known as Beau's lines, can appear when nail growth has temporarily been interrupted.
As a nail technician, it's important to recognise the difference and avoid trying to diagnose the cause yourself. If a client's nails have changed unexpectedly or you're concerned about their appearance, recommending that they speak to their GP or another healthcare professional is always the safest approach.
Natural ageing can cause vertical ridges
One of the most common reasons clients develop vertical nail ridges is simply ageing.
Just as our skin changes over time, so do our nails. Vertical lines can become more prominent as clients get older and aren't necessarily a sign that something is wrong.
For clients with otherwise healthy nails, you can focus on creating a smooth surface for their manicure rather than trying to remove the ridges completely.
A flexible rubber base gel can be particularly useful for smoothing minor unevenness before applying gel polish, helping you achieve a more even-looking finish without excessively buffing the natural nail.
Dry nails can make ridges more noticeable
Dryness can make the texture of the natural nail appear more prominent, particularly if the nail plate is already brittle or prone to splitting.
Frequent hand washing, cleaning products and repeated exposure to water can all contribute to dry nails and surrounding skin. Encourage clients to wear gloves when cleaning and regularly moisturise their hands, nails and cuticles.
Daily cuticle oil is another simple addition to their nail care routine.
Consistent aftercare can help keep the nails and surrounding skin hydrated between appointments.
Nail trauma can affect the nail plate
Not every ridge develops naturally. Damage or trauma around the nail can temporarily affect how it grows.
Picking or peeling off soak off gel polish, over-filing the natural nail and physical injuries can all potentially leave changes in the nail plate.
This is why careful preparation and removal are so important. Avoid aggressive filing of the natural nail and remind clients that peeling off their gel nail polish can remove layers of the nail plate along with the product.
Using the correct gel polish remover and following professional removal techniques can help minimise unnecessary damage and maintain healthier natural nails between appointments.
Why you shouldn't buff ridges away
When faced with an uneven nail plate, it can be tempting to reach straight for the buffer.
However, excessive buffing can thin the natural nail and potentially make it weaker. The aim shouldn't be to completely remove every ridge, but instead to gently prepare the nail and use the right products to create a smoother finished surface.
For natural nail preparation, always choose an appropriate fine-grit file or buffer and avoid removing unnecessary layers from the nail plate.
Can gel products help smooth nail ridges?
If you've assessed the client's nails and they're suitable for a nail service, the right professional products can help create a smoother-looking finish.
A rubber base gel can work well for clients with flexible natural nails and minor unevenness. Its thicker consistency can help smooth the surface before applying coloured gel polish.
For clients requiring additional structure and strength, builder gel nails may be another option. Products such as builder in a bottle, clear builder gel or nude builder gel can create a smooth overlay while adding structure to the natural nail.
Self-levelling builder gel can be particularly useful when working with uneven surfaces, as the product can be carefully structured to create a balanced finish without excessive filing.
Always remember, however, that these products improve the appearance of ridges rather than treating their underlying cause.
When should nail ridges be checked?
Most nail changes aren't caused by anything serious, but nail technicians should always work within their professional scope.
If a client suddenly develops deep horizontal ridges, the appearance of their nails has changed significantly, or you notice changes in colour, shape or texture that concern you, it's best to pause the service and recommend that they seek advice from a GP or appropriate healthcare professional.
Certain nail changes can sometimes be associated with illness, skin conditions or nutritional deficiencies, so they shouldn't simply be covered with a nail enhancement without considering whether the nail is suitable for treatment.
Healthy-looking nails start with the right care 💅
Nail ridges are incredibly common, and for many clients, they're simply part of their natural nail texture. Understanding the difference between everyday vertical ridges and more significant changes can help you provide the right advice and adapt your treatments accordingly.
From careful nail preparation and regular cuticle oil to rubber base gel, builder gel and long lasting gel polish, choosing the right professional products can help you create a smooth, polished manicure while protecting the natural nail underneath.
Most importantly, don't try to buff away every imperfection. Good nail services are about working with the client's natural nails, not against them.
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